Bellows

Bellows are an important tool when it comes to cooking with charcoal. Charcoal’s temperature, unlike firewood, is regulated more by how much air it has, rather than how much charcoal is on the pile.

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Quince Marmalade – Le Menagier De Paris

TO MAKE QUINCE MARMALADE, take quinces and peel them, then cut in quarters and take out the eye[114] and the seeds, then cook them in good red wine and then strain through a strainer: then take honey and boil it for a long time and skim it, then put your quinces in it and stir thoroughly, and keep boiling until the honey is reduced by half; then throw in powdered hippocras, and stir till cold, then divide into portions and keep it.

Le Menagier de Paris Online

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Lamb Haricot – Le Menagier de Paris

HARICOT of MUTTON. Cut it into small pieces, then bring it just to the boil, then fry in bacon grease, and fry with onions chopped small and cooked, and mix in beef stock, and add mace, parsley, hyssop and sage, and put it on to boil together.

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Making coad for shoe making

Firstly, what is coad? Coad, also known as shoemaker’s wax, is a mix of beeswax and resin, and acts as a glue when sewing leather together, helping to ensure that if one stitch is cut, the entire shoe won’t fall apart.

The coad is rubbed into all of the thread. It’s slippery when hot but very sticky at room temperature so while you’re pulling it quickly through a stitch, it runs smoothly but as soon as you pull it tight it glues up permanently.

When using coad for shoemaking, you should also burnish all the seams, as it helps to melt the coad and glue the whole seam shut.
Basically wax by itself is a lubricant, so even though it fills space and slightly waterproofs thread, it is mainly there to help the thread move through the stitch holes (and doesn’t glue it in place much at all). In order to ensure that the stitches stay firmly in place, rosin needs to be added. 

 

The code in the above photo were made (from top to bottom)

(a) 60g pine rosin, 30g wax (2:1) – courtesy of Al Muckart
(b) 60g pine rosin, 30g wax, ‘some’ tallow to soften
(c) 18g pine rosin, 36g pitch, 6g wax (1:2:0.333) – rosin courtesy of Wayne Robinson (sealing pitch from the UK), recipe courtesy of Francis Classe & the Crispin Colloquy
(d) a re-melt of my old recipe (3:1 rosin:wax), then added wax to make it up to 2:1 as it was too hard before. An old lump of the stuff shown next to the renewed version for comparison.

Method: combine ingredients in a ramekin, and place in the oven at 150C (electric oven, not gas!). Stir every 10min using an old knife (it’ll never be the same again). In the 10min periods, prep a cheap plastic bucket 2/3 full of water at body temp.
Remove mix from the oven as soon as it is fully melted (30-40min I found) , stir for a few minutes with the knife to let it cool a bit, then gently pour into the bucket of water.
Wet your hands then knead the coad between your palms with until it starts feeling stretchy, then taffy pull until it is a constituent colour (no streaks) and continue kneading/pulling until the coad is down to near room temp. That’s it!

Major lessons learned:
(1) bring the mix just to melting temp, no hotter. if it is bubbling (ie hotter than melting temp) stir and let cool a bit before pouring into bucket.

(2) use Luke warm water in the bucket, otherwise coad sticks to your hands badly. Using cold water would probably work ok too, though may cause rosin to crystallise before there is time to taffy-pull.

(3)Store the coad in water between uses to keep it as good as the day it was made.

 

These coads were made in 2016. So some notes about the coad, two years on

Top choice for me in all temp ranges I’ve tried is recipe (b) – that is, 60g rosin, 30g wax and a dash (say 5g) tallow. It works perfectly in spring/autumn/summer (temp range 20-35), gets a bit sticky above 30 degrees. For temp below 20 it needs a bit of warming in the hand to work well. Since the products being made are mostly being used in the 20-35 temp range, I’ll keep using this coad for future.
I haven’t used the pitch recipe (c) much as I have been mostly sewing on my white leather couch in the lounge, though it needs some warming up once weather goes below 20 degrees, and is slightly more crunchy than the recipe (b).
The recipe (a) is too firm and crunchy for my liking and binds a lot mid-way through pulling thread through. The only difference between that recipe and the favoured one is the addition of some tallow, which I’ll definitely be continuing to do in future batches, it seems to make a big difference!

 

 

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Dying with Indigo – success!

Originally posted to the forum by Richard

 

So today (June 2012), after much talk, I finally made my first attempt at indigo dyeing! Huzzar! While I did manage to make some blue linen, the colour achieved was not up to the standard I was expecting, and I have a number of ideas as to what might have gone wrong. But I’ll get to those later.

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